Friday 20 June 2014

Thunder Road

Leaving Kenora we started our 4 day journey on Highway 17 to Thunder Bay on the western shore of Lake Superior.
 

It's said the best laid plans don't survive first contact with the enemy and this was the case here. The plan was in disarray within two hours and the enemy was the weather.  It rained hard rain like it shouldn't rain at this time of the year and the swirling winds appeared to hit from every direction.  

Riding a recumbent bicycle presents particular issues in this type of weather.  As one lies back there is no way to put your head down.  So the rain hits you full face and when the sleet hits your eyes it's blinking sore.  So I cycled with one eye shut and one eye half shut - this was marginally better than trying fogged up sunglasses. Secondly, as one lies back all the rain blows up your rain jacket and you get soaked from the inside. Consequently, I have a new business venture when I return home - I am going to manufacture rain proof onesies.  Nice idea for recumbent cyclists!  

By lunchtime we were soaked through for the second time and as we don't have another change of clothing and we were 80km from our destination we called it a day.  By now the wind was forcing us to a slow pace and so it was another night of camping in the wild.  We were carrying dehydrated food as emergency rations but the Himalayan rice and lentils didn't taste like they should.  

Thankfully because it rained heavily all day and night the bugs were hiding.  We were bear aware and took the necessary precautions regarding food etc.  Apparently these forests don't just have bears but also wolves and, in the morning, it wasn't long before we cycled past one wandering by the side of the road.  As soon as he saw us, however, he was off -  I think it was the smell from my damp socks in my bag. 


Over the next three days we cycled through stops at Dryden, Ignace and Upsala. The weather was fine but the roads were very hilly.  Each day we cycled over 100km and climbed up to 2000 feet.  It was a tiring few days.  To be honest, it was a very very tiring few days.  

When we arrived at Upsala the local motel was full and so was another night rough camping although the spot was a local park by a lake where camping was permitted.
 

We started cycling before 7am on our last day into Thunder Bay.  We managed to get a marvellous breakfast of bacon and eggs a few kilometres down the road and then set off for Thunder Bay.  

All through the Prairies the tailwinds were a great friend but today was some payback.  The wind blew from the north east, hit us front and side and we struggled all day.  The only high point was some homemade wild blueberry pie we had bought at the breakfast motel.  Best pie in the world.  Unquestionably.  Susan does say her 'mam's' pie was just as good but today this was the best.

We did have another 'moose' encounter and this time I got a picture!  I was off the bike with my camera before Susan could stop me.  The moose wasn't hanging about though and dodged back into the forest before giving me one last look.


As you can see he wasn't a big moose - about half the size of the first one and no horns.  

Eventually we reached Thunder Bay and checked into a motel - 134km and 2400 feet ascent later.  Our room smells like a zoo with all the damp clothing but as long as we don't let the chambermaid in nobody else knows. 

We have rested a day in Thunder Bay and changed the tyres on the bike.  The tyres we had didn't get to the expected duration for a Schwalbe Big Apple tyre but that's probably due to the weight and the recumbent steering.  Our front wheel was through the rubber to the puncture protection layer and on the rear the tyre wall was coming away.  As a result, on the road into Thunder Bay we had steep downhills and scary wobbling.  However, we were too tired to care and slow down really.  Well Susan actually does care but I'm more of the hold on and hope type of person.  

3580km to date.

Next stage of our journey takes us round the north shore of Lake Superior.  We hear the hills are steeper than the Rockies.  Oh we can't wait! 



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